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Ah yes, spring, a time when a young man's (and old for that matter) heart turns to . . . painting the bottom of their boat. I decided that it was time to switch boat yards this year, so I turned to Deaton's Yacht Service in Oriental, NC. They are slightly more restrictive when it comes to owner work than the previous boat yard I have used in Oriental, but it worked out ok. For an owner painting his own bottom (boat bottom that is), they will haul you after 3 PM on Friday (maybe earlier if scheduling allows), block you up and then drop you back into the water on Monday morning. Being off for spring break from March 25th - April 4th, this worked fine for me. As it turns out, they requested a pre 3 PM haul out, but due to my arrival it turned out to be a 2 PM haul out.
It took me the rest of Friday afternoon to clean the prop and shoe of barnacles, old bottom paint and an epoxy undercoat. I was also able to give the hull a quick wash. Saturday morning broke as a cool cloudy day. Temperature was in the mid 50's, which was well within the tolerance for putting on bottom paint. I use Trinidad SR, and have had great success with it. They recommend two coats with a minimum of 2 hours between coats. I was able to get a coat on before lunch and a second coat shortly after lunch. I pulled the prop and finished cleaning it before applying a couple of coats of West Systems 2001 epoxy to it and the rudder shoe. Following this, I applied a coat of wax to the hull. After placing wax on, I use my DeWalt Rotary Grinder with a polishing pad to remove the wax. Works great, except I had forgotten that you have to put the wax on thin, or it gums up the pad. So the first coat took a lot of work to get off. Dark had fallen by the time I was finished getting the wax off.
While cleaning the prop on Friday, I noticed that my
cutlass bearing (final bearing supporting the prop shaft) had migrated up the
tube. Without removing the prop shaft, there seemed to be no easy way to
bring it back down. In a Monday consultation with John Deaton, it was
decided to just put a new cutlass bearing in place and not worry about the old
bearing. But it turned out that the bearing was a little loose in the
tube. The most economical method to fix this was to drill and tap two
addition set screw holes to secure the bearing, and to use 5200 to keep the
bearing from being loose.
The prop shaft had to be loosened and slid partially out so the part of the
shaft where the bearing would rest could be cleaned. This took some time.
After being placed back into the water. I motored
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